A Guide to the Mountain Passes of Ballaghisheen and Coomakesta

The mountain roads of Kerry’s Iveragh Peninsula reveal a quieter side of the Ring of Kerry. Ballaghisheen Pass and Coomakesta Pass cross high, exposed ground where stone walls, bogland, lakes and sea views replace the busier scenes found around popular coastal stops. Each pass has its own character, and together they make a memorable route through the landscapes between Glenbeigh, Waterville, Caherdaniel and Sneem.

For visitors from Australia, the scale can be surprising. The distances are modest by Australian standards, yet progress is slow because the roads are narrow, winding and frequently shared with walkers, cyclists, farm vehicles and tour coaches. A drive that looks short on a map may take much longer than a similar distance outside Melbourne, Sydney or Brisbane.

These passes are best approached as part of the living landscape of the Skellig Coast rather than as isolated viewpoints. Weather, farming, local history and the rhythm of small communities all shape the experience. Planning carefully leaves more time to stop safely, appreciate the scenery and support the villages along the route.

The setting of the two passes

Ballaghisheen Pass lies inland, linking the Glenbeigh area with the Waterville side of the peninsula. The route climbs through a broad mountain basin surrounded by rugged slopes and open moorland. Its Irish name is commonly translated as “the way of the fairies” or associated with a fairy pass, a reminder of the folklore that runs through Kerry’s landscape. The setting feels remote, even though the road connects established communities.

Coomakesta Pass is found on the N70 between Waterville and Caherdaniel, with views extending across Kenmare Bay towards the Beara Peninsula and the Atlantic coast. The pass is lower and more directly connected with the famous coastal driving circuit, but its elevated viewpoint gives it a dramatic sense of space. On a clear day, islands, headlands and distant mountain ranges form a layered panorama.

The contrast between them is central to their appeal. Ballaghisheen is an inland mountain crossing with a stark, almost private atmosphere. Coomakesta combines upland scenery with broad coastal prospects. Travellers can experience both in a single day, although allowing plenty of time is important if the route includes village visits, short walks or heritage sites.

Travelling across Ballaghisheen Pass

Approaching from Glenbeigh, the road gradually leaves the settled valley and enters rougher upland country. The surrounding ground is shaped by glaciation, rainfall and centuries of grazing. Patches of bog, exposed rock and dark water create a palette of green, brown, grey and blue that changes quickly as cloud moves across the hills.

Ballaghisheen Pass is especially rewarding for travellers who enjoy landscape photography, quiet drives and broad mountain views. There may be little apparent activity apart from sheep, birds and the occasional vehicle. That quiet should not be mistaken for an absence of local use: the road remains part of the working countryside, and gates, farm entrances and grazing animals require care.

The road itself demands concentration. It is narrow in places, with bends, gradients and limited passing space. Australian drivers will already be accustomed to driving on the left, which removes one major adjustment, but the road environment is very different from a long-distance route through regional New South Wales or Victoria. Keep speed low, use passing places correctly and never stop on a bend or at the crest of a hill.

The views from Coomakesta Pass

Coomakesta Pass offers one of the clearest high viewpoints on the Ring of Kerry. From the roadside viewing area, the land falls away towards Kenmare Bay, while the coast curves around a succession of coves and peninsulas. Caherdaniel, Derrynane and the wider Skellig Coast lie within the same region, each contributing beaches, archaeological remains, community stories and maritime history.

Visibility determines the experience. In bright weather, the bay can appear sharply defined, with the Beara mountains rising across the water. Mist and low cloud create a more atmospheric scene, softening the horizon and bringing the nearby stone walls and grassy slopes into focus. Rain can arrive quickly, so a seemingly ordinary stop may change character within minutes.

The viewpoint is a natural place to pause, but it should be treated as a roadside stop rather than an open mountain trailhead. Read signs, park only where permitted and leave access clear for other vehicles. A short visit can be enough to enjoy the view, while longer explorations are better planned at designated walks and attractions in the surrounding communities.

Weather, driving and practical planning

Kerry’s mountain weather is changeable in every season. Wind can be strong on exposed sections, and rain may reduce visibility without warning. Met Éireann forecasts are useful before departure, while local conditions can still differ between the coast and the uplands. A calm morning in Waterville does not guarantee clear conditions at Ballaghisheen, and a sunny forecast may still include passing showers.

Build flexibility into the day. Fuel stations are limited away from the larger settlements, mobile reception can be inconsistent and public toilets are not available at every viewpoint. Carry water, food, warm layers and a charged phone, while treating the phone as a convenience rather than a complete safety plan. Offline mapping is sensible, especially when travelling between Glenbeigh, Waterville, Caherdaniel and Sneem.

For Australian visitors used to planning around school holidays, the Irish summer from June to August is the busiest period on these roads. Early starts can reduce congestion, especially when coaches are using the Ring of Kerry. Spring and autumn often bring softer light and fewer visitors, though daylight hours are shorter and weather conditions require greater care. Check opening times for museums, cafés and heritage sites before setting out, as small businesses may operate seasonally.

Cyclists and walkers also use these roads. Give them generous space, wait patiently before passing and expect blind corners. Large vehicles may need the full width of the carriageway, so pull into a suitable passing place when necessary. Courtesy matters in a small rural community, just as it does when sharing a narrow road in regional Tasmania or along the Great Ocean Road.

Heritage and responsible exploring

The passes sit within a region rich in archaeological and cultural heritage. The Iveragh Peninsula contains ancient stone structures, early Christian sites, old roads, famine-era traces and settlements shaped by fishing, farming and seasonal work. Nearby Derrynane is closely associated with Daniel O’Connell, while Waterville has strong links with the sea, local tourism and twentieth-century cultural history. Skellig Michael, the UNESCO World Heritage Site offshore, adds an internationally recognised dimension to the wider region.

Landscape protection depends on careful behaviour. Stay on established surfaces where possible, avoid climbing walls, keep dogs under control and close gates exactly as you find them. Do not collect stones, disturb archaeological features or leave food waste behind. In a wet climate, a small shortcut across boggy ground can widen into lasting damage when repeated by many visitors.

Supporting local communities is part of responsible travel. Buy supplies in villages, visit local cafés and galleries, and look for community events or learning initiatives listed by regional information hubs. Travellers from Australia may be familiar with the value of spending in small towns during a road trip, whether that means choosing a local bakery in country Victoria or visiting a community market in regional Queensland. The same principle applies here: modest purchases help keep services and traditions visible.

Allow the mountains to set the pace. A thoughtful journey might combine Ballaghisheen’s inland solitude with Coomakesta’s coastal outlook, followed by time in Waterville, Glenbeigh, Caherdaniel or Sneem. The most memorable details may be simple ones: rain lifting from a ridge, the sound of sheep beyond a wall, or a sudden view across the bay.

Use local maps and weather information to plan your crossing, then explore the villages, heritage places and coastal communities that give these mountain roads their meaning. Keep the journey slow, drive considerately and make time for the people and landscapes of the Skellig Coast.